Postcards from eve

It is lunar New Year’s Eve. Tonight, Singapore is quiet as families gather together for the reunion meal at the start of the 15-day festival to bring in the new year. Out goes the horse, and we become rams, goats or sheep, depending on what consumer branding you are following. I prefer sheep, for some reason (do I follow rather than lead, a little bit? Maaaaaybe).

This is our third Chinese New Year (CNY) in Singapore and at last I feel I am starting to really get it. I get the hanging lanterns and the songs, I even know a bit of one. I understand the rituals better and I think I understand the value of working like a beast all year and then having this one almighty celebration, unlike no other I’ve had in my closed-off life. SM’s music teacher couldn’t make tonight, as she had to see family; she left him a red packet too. The school bus tonight had a golden money pot on the front and red circular ‘ears’, one on each side. SM hopped down still dressed in his Mandarin outfit and stayed dressed in his black and red silk all night – our own red lanterns and bali fish kite are hanging up outside like stockings on 24th Dec. It’s all so festive.

I am upstairs in our main bedroom, surrounded by packing cases and the boys are downstairs watching telly. Special treat for SM to stay up a bit late, even though we have a very early flight to catch tomorrow. I have hidden a hong bao each for Aunty Rosy and Jonah – the oldest and youngest in the Asian bit of our family. They’re getting red bags full of chocolate, the bit of cash in those red packets, small pot of pineapple tarts each and two little metal goats on red ribbons each (even numbers, always), plus some oranges.

It feels like Christmas, and the build-up has been exciting: music in the shops, a relaxed feel about town, and the famed pre-new year dry breezy weather as a bonus. Last weekend, Chinatown was stuffed full of red danglers, paper pineapples, sheeps and goats and people getting their shopping in – (a bit like Truro town centre around about 23 December). The roads are now empty, schools closed, companies locked down. Our school only closed this afternoon, but plenty finished earlier. Today being CNY eve, businesses and shops closed at lunch as families returned home to meet and eat. The school bus was early this morning; roads empty for my run. It’s so peaceful.

Tomorrow we hop on a flight and head to Ipoh and Aunty Rosy, and then KL – four days of peaceful gluttony before re-entering the fray. I am delighted to be immersing myself in Asian culture this time round, and only wish we’d done this year on year, instead of choosing places that had nothing to do with the festival at all. I only hope Rosy stays awake long enough in the evenings to enjoy a bite or two with us all.

See you on the other side! Gong xi fa cai.IMG_8793

Thank you letters

To-Do lists as a blog post: dull as an old sock or as fascinating as the contents of the person in front’s shopping basket? Whatever: today I’m on about a shared task of SmallMonkey’s and mine. As well as the usual rounds of homework, room tidying and plate-clearing, he has a stack of thank you cards to write due to the recent bounty from Christmas and 10th birthday festivities. If we don’t start now we’ll be including them in the next lot of Christmas cards.

I’ve got some thanks to give as well, after a blog event I attended last week. If you check in regularly you’ll know I’m not a commercial writer, no banner ads and no hashtagging unless I’m Tweeting a link, and being a ‘vanilla’ blogger is not necessarily a good thing. I wanted to change the world with my blog, or at least make a bit of cash – turns out I’m mostly banging on about What I Did On My Holidays (not fishing, just saying). I’ve yet to work out what’s next.

No matter, I do what I do and it trolleys along nicely, and every now and then I’m invited to meet other people who blog, most of them more successfully than me, and it’s always good to hear how the other half do it.

Companies know that bloggers connect well, and Singapore lends itself charmingly to hosting such events, being a relatively small city, geographically, with a social set-up that tends to form miraculous chain-links in a Two Degrees Of Separation kind of way. Although my page is clear of business links I have done more networking in my two and a half years on the Red Dot than in the whole of the 43 years preceding our move. Isolated from familiar ground and with the jolt of the move still firing me with some enthusiasm, I am free to reinvent myself at every media event I attend, pressing my cards forward with two hands and connecting up the next morning. It is easy and fun and interesting, and it’s opened more doors for me than ever before.

So down to the blogmeet.sg event I popped, hosted at Edit Lifestyle (funky homeware store) and set up by the very clever Lucy from Lulabelle Lifestyle, who wanted to create a space in which people who rattle the keyboards could connect and hashtag themselves into a flurry of useful bonding. Aside from being a happy and fun evening, the event did just what it said on the tin, and I left two hours later with a wodge of new business cards, a stuffed goody bag and a Panama hat, plus several new blogger friends. I also reconnected with a work colleague from (clicks on CV to work it out) golly, about 17 years ago – that’s as long as I’ve known Mr PC. She still remembered my spot of bother over the wedding dress, and we’re meeting again for drinks in a few weeks. Awesome.

THANK YOU, then (because I’ve got to get mine in before SM, haven’t I?), to the following outlets who filled our chubby goody bags with items that are much nicer looking in reality than in the photo here. ClockwiseIMG_8765 from top left:

Pictured centre: Sweet croc dangler and discount voucher from Tamarind Living; funky ring and discount from Shiva Designs.

See? #swagtastic. That’s the next few birthdays sorted, plus a lot more padding in the old contacts book. Not a bad evening’s work. Consider yourself properly thanked, Lucy @ Lulabelle.

PS: Did I mention the Panama? (oh, the Panama)

Just saying…

My library card expired. At the same time I knew I was about to start a new research project for the next exhibition at TPM, so I thought I’d renew the card and get ready for some swotting at the same time. I had a load of books to give away so I took them to the public library up at Bishan, being a) a branch that was on my MRT line, b) a branch that has shelves for dropping off old books and picking up new ones, c) somewhere I still hadn’t yet explored.

Bishan was spacious, windy and smelled of lunch, which immediately put me in a bad mood because I’d started the stupid Farce Diet and was feeling the starvation just as I walked past Simply Bread’s croissant-rich air outlet.

A nice lady at the library counter confused me completely by telling me that the card itself had not expired but that I still needed to pay. This she helped me do at a ‘kiosk’ where you press in your card and wait, stamp in some codes, wait, out comes card chip facing up, wait, put card back in chip facing down, wait, slide, wait, tap in more words, buttons go ping, card pops out. Yes, that is why she helped me.

Having dropped off the books and updated my card I did a big smug tick-motion with my arm off the imaginary list and stepped gaily towards the MRT (ignoring mean old Simply Bread very bravely), but the stupid list got all needy again two weeks later, when I got a payment renewal notice by post. So today I popped in to my favourite Singapore library branch, the very central National Library on Victoria Street, partly to challenge my own private vertigo by going up and down in the glass lifts that are stuck to the outside of the building, but partly also to ask, politely, WTFpleaseandthankyou.

So I did that, nicely, and the nice lady (they are all VERY nice at libraries here, please go and see for yourselves) told me that in fact I didn’t need to pay anything until October and that everything was fine. She said that sometimes, just every now and then, they will send you a little note to remind you that at some point, in the future, you will probably need to pay something.

Seriously.

Interlacing v2

There it goes again, Singapore doing that deja vu thing, only it’s always real deja vu, never imagined. Last time it was a Dad memory that repeated itself from a different vantage point: oh, it’s too hard to explain, take a look here (it’s not a long entry, don’t worry).

That one was a Dad-based memory and this one’s Dad-based again, only rather than being set in the woody enclave of last time (see link, above), when it happened this time I was on a bus going to SM’s school, when the bus I was on pulled out a little in order to get around a rugged corner of construction work. As we sidled past I noticed that part of the hoardings had been taken down, or pulled to one side, and I peered through the gap.

And there it was, at last. In the time it took us to squeeze past and be on our way, I saw the food court that I’ve spent the last three years trying to recall, explaining and describing it to countless people in the hopes that I might find it and go there again. It was John’s aunt who took us there – me, Mr PC, SM and Grandpa – on our first trip to Singapore in winter 2011. I liked the place a lot, for some reason. When I have tried to describe it, people always try to help. ‘Oh, that’s Newton,’ says someone. ‘Maxwells,’ says another. ‘Bukit Timah,’ said my map-voice when I shut my eyes and tried to recall the car trip and the route in relation to that journey’s starting point, but my map voice was wrong, I was too far east. To make it more complicated we had visited the food court at night, so describing it to anyone was always going to be tricky.

Anyway, thanks to this city’s wonderful way of taking you right back to places you’ve been to before, without you realising it, we can now all relax, because this is just what had happened. All we have to do is wait until they finish building the MRT line by those food courts and then we can hop on the No 75 and go and get our bowls of noodles. I love your interlacing, Singapore, you do it so well – you’re like a mystical puzzle in a very safe setting, with kway teow in the pot at the end of the rainbow instead of gold. Brilliant.

Double happiness

Small Monkey is definitely not so small any more: double digits in the PC house at last. A year ago, I presented nine years’ worth of monkey-related quotes. My notepad wasn’t quite as busy over the last 12 months but I managed to get a few things down. Happy birthday, SM – ten years old and chattier than ever:

24 MARCH
Me: ‘I’m sitting next to you, please don’t pick your nose and eat it.’
SM: ‘Then don’t sit next to me.’

23 JUNE
[‘Imagine‘ gets played at school graduation day, and after school SM is keen to talk about the life and times of the great songwriter]
‘Oh poor John Lennon, it’s a shame, I’d like to have known him.’

3 JULY
[I collect SM from summer camp and attractive young group leader Josie tells me about a conversation she had with him earlier on]
“He said to me: ‘I’m single, you know.’ I said: ‘Really?’ He said: ‘Yes, I don’t have any brothers or sisters.'”

4 JULY
[walking to summer camp we discuss Tregeagle, a Cornish legend, and how Grandpa has told the story to all of us in turn]
‘And I’ll tell it to my kids, too.’

6 JULY
[imparting random advice en route to the toilets at Changi Airport]
‘Whenever you feel guilty and you feel like you’ve done something wrong, just think about all the exciting things to come and what’s about to happen. That’s my encouragement.’

12 JULY
[watching the penultimate World Cup game]
SM: ‘Oh, they’re doing The Honka.’
Us: ‘The what?’
SM: ‘Where they all dance about and chant before a game.’

25 AUG
[watching me send an SMS at breakfast]
‘You know why grown-ups are so addicted to phones? Because they weren’t invented in the 1960s. But *I* have always had them. Kids right now, in the present, are used to it.’

26 SEP
[at the doc]
‘This place creeps me out sometimes. Usually there are nice things around but here it’s just [gestures at the leaflets]: “All your dentals will fall out”.’

DEC 14
[after a chat about Xmas]
‘Mum, I’m FREAKIN’ excited. Not physically. That would be embarrassing.’

Dec 15
[Mr PC is overseas]
‘I’m really missing Dad, you know. I mean, I don’t want to be a sissy but…’

JAN 20
[a cake discussion the day before the birthday]
‘Can you make it the best cake ever? You know like in SimCity where you build the sewage factories and make everyone happy 100 per cent? We need to do that with the cake.’

Coming right up, SM xxx

She made me do it

I’m moving forward, and I really think I’m going to do it. We are 25m off the ground (that’s 75 foot for any old-fashioned counters out there). I step onto the metal grid and we proceed. She is in front of me, and she sets a nice calm pace and squeaks with elation as we watch the ground bend slightly, far below us. I follow her, inventing an odd walk that seems to help – it involves bending at the knees, gripping the bars on either side and loping forward, staying low. I feel like Basily Fawlty. It’s odd but effective, and with giggles, squeals and plenty of eye-shutting we get to the end, at which point she admits she is terrified, too, and my knees agree, finally giving way to tremors and continuing to knock together for a good 20 minutes. No one came up behind us and the group in front moved off quickly, so we had the bridge all to ourselves. We did it! We’re alive, giddy with relief, hooting and cooing with the brilliance of it all: a textbook canopy walk.

‘She’ was my sister, and the canopy walk was the one in MacRitchie. The words ‘canopy’ and ‘walk’ don’t equate with someone who is terrified of heights, but strange things happen when family come to stay, you end up reverting to form – she made me do it, basically.

When family’s around I’m no longer the 45-year-old mother of a nearly ten-year-old boy with a husband, a nice little career in freelance journalism and a tour guide habit on the side. The plane offloads whoever it is that’s come to stay and suddenly I’m nine years old again, playing the little sister role just like the girl with the curl in her forehead – sometimes I’m lovely, sometimes I’m hideous, but always I am younger than the person who was in front of me on that metal gangplank. On the beach at Sentosa on her last day, beer beside her, sarong underneath her, my sister said: ‘It’s a pity you’re not just down the road, this would be fun to do now and then’, and that’s just it – we don’t want a condensed amount of time in each other’s pockets, we just want to hang out like we would do in the UK. She didn’t make me have beer, that day, by the way, I had cocktails instead. But she did make me sit on the beach and wade in the ocean with my skirt hitched into my pants.

Back to the point, though, and that crazy treetop walk. Anyone who had done the walk before had always told me it was perfectly OK, offering words of encouragement like: ‘The sides are boob-height, you’ll feel perfectly safe,’ and: ‘It doesn’t really wobble,’ and: ‘It’s fine.’ I didn’t believe any of that and I was never going to do it, but there we were at the sign that tells you either to go for it or to go home, and my sister said, let’s just walk to the entrance and see how it is, and if you don’t like it we can go home. In the end, what swung it for me (quite literally) was a nice young guy who directed us to the entrance then said, as a parting shot: ‘it’s totally fine, I’m scared of heights and I did it.’ Well, you can’t argue with that. Half an hour later, I was doing it too.

I’m not going to lie, it was terrifying, it did wobble, and if we hadn’t been in Safe As Houses Singapore, where I knew that a bridge like that would be safety tested to within an inch of its hideous steel chain-link girders, then I would have run a mile through the jungle.

‘Do you ever watch I’m a Celebrity?’ asked my sister as we crossed the mid-point and I peered through the slits in my eyes at the miles of sky around me and the tiny leaves on the very tops of the very tall trees. Her voice seemed to come from a long way away, even though I was practically treading on her heels with my odd loping walk, and even though I thought I replied ‘yes’ out loud, it felt like I was talking out of the side of my mouth like a puppet. She heard me though, because then she said:

‘Well, think of yourself as doing that canopy walk out of the jungle, only without the fireworks.’

See what she’d done there? She’d reverted to form, too, playing the role of older sister even though she was shaking with fear herself. She’s always done that; she’s good at making sense of nutty stuff, and she’s also good at bullet points and instructions, and actually I’m not so bad at that sort of stuff, too. I’m tempted to go back at night and graffiti the sign with bullet points:

  • Don’t look down
  • Don’t stop
  • Bend at the knees
  • Bring a friend

Really, though, what you need to make you do something like this is an older sister. I’m so glad I’ve got mine.

O Little Town Of [enter name of city here]

“It must be surreal for you,” wrote a friend in a recent email, “spending Christmas out there in the tropics.”

“Not really,” I replied, “this is the fourth year running that we’ve had a hot one.”

That’s odd, chimed in one of my many internal voices (the one in the elf suit). For a homebird like you who, apart from the last four years, has only spent a few Christmases away from Cornwall (London, Marlow and once, randomly, Portugal) – that is a very odd statement indeed.

He had a point, my elf-voice. Our Christmases were always spent in Cornwall at the cottage, where the only other location decision we had to make was whether to spend it with one set of grandparents on the south coast, or with the other set on the north and then in whose house. Stockings were dragged into Mum and Dad’s bed, and then we’d meet with cousins for the big lunch.

We kids always had to wait until after the meal to open the big presents under the tree (yawn). The youngest child was postman, and went around the room lobbing gifts onto people’s laps, often without really reading the label, so that Granny was often in danger of unwrapping a wrench set or HMV voucher. Sometimes we’d play a game. We always watched a Christmas film. There was always Quality Street, and we always had a walk on the beach at some point. Our best set of crackers was bought by Mum and contained frilly knickers; there’s a photo of me, my sister, cousin and aunt having a race to jump into the pants over our tights: good, clean family fun. We always had a banquet, and I would count the separate dishes: turkey or goose, a big juicy ham, sausages tucked up in bacon, both mash and roasties, parsnips, sprouts, peas and carrots, swede (not the pop group, the vegetable), two types of gravy, a nut roast, stuffing, cranberry sauce and bread sauce, then Christmas pud, Christmas cake and mince pies. Sausage rolls, often, for later on. We had an adults’ and a kids’ table: Schloer for us, bubbles for them. I can smell the log fires crackling. Yep, I suppose in my heart Christmas will always be about Cornwall.

Yet here I am again in the tropics, and as I just don’t seem to be able to get myself back to the UK for the festivities these days, I adopt a tropical enthusiasm for Dec 25 and I’m perfectly fine about dollops of melting whipped cream on the mince pies, Santa hat selfies on white beaches and ice cool beer replacing mulled wine (although I do still stubbornly make my mulled wine, and why ever not). Doesn’t really sound too bad, does it?

What matters most is who we spend the day with, and for me there should always be either a crowd or family – preferably both, but I’ll take them separately if I have to. This year we’ve a small group, just the three PCs and my sister, who is sledding into Changi just in time for lunch on the big day. Our Dads won’t be there but they’ve both got the next trips already in their sights, and just knowing that makes it OK. I’ve already got the crackers and Quality Street; we’re ready.

May your days be merry and bright, and may all your Christmases be spent just how and where you want them.

A side order of sulk

Another lunch, another eavesdrop:
‘And then you go back and not a thing has changed, apart from the children of course, but these days it’s just not worth it.’
What a pity it wasn’t a juicier snippet. If I have to sit around waiting for people in restaurants (cough, #firstworldproblems), at least let me overhear something original/funny/steamy.
Of course, what the people at the next table were really talking about was Perspective, with a big pee. A move gives one a different perspective, so yes, once you have relocated you may get the sensation that you’ve changed more than those left at home. Actually, plenty of things give us perspective: a new love, a new job, an affair, a life loss. It is sheer arrogance to assume that nothing changes at home just because you are not there. It is the same as saying: “You haven’t done this, therefore you haven’t grown as much as me.”
In replying I feel tired, trite even, in disagreeing, panto-style, that in fact oh yes they have changed, they’re just doing it under different skies, that’s all.

Meh. Don’t go back, then, I doubt anyone will mind. Cheque please.

Baubles

Mum’s popped up again. I don’t write about her much, in the same way that I don’t talk about my breakfasts or my shoe size, but she appears now and then as I may have mentioned briefly before. Like I said, it’s never in a haunting way – she’s not in the wardrobe or sitting next to me on the bus. In a weird reflection of the real-life Mum, our meetings are ad-hoc and surprisingly intense. Last month, having not swung by for ages, she was suddenly filtering down through my self-tour headphones at the Changi War Museum, making me sit on a bench to catch my breath with the immediacy of her arrival. As emotional as that museum was, I’m not sure the sudden sensation of her presence (or memory of her, whatever you want to call it) was entirely down to the harrowing prisoner stories and sad sepia photos. I reckon it was because of the beautiful hymns being sung into my ears – although she was by no means madly religious, Mum loved a hymn or two, and that’s for sure what caused her to pop up then. Well, she’s back again, and this time I blame the carols – and the baubles.

Mum had an interesting approach to Christmas. With her it began in August, and an out-of-the-cornflower-blue-sky email to each family member asking where we thought we might be many miles ahead, on Dec 25. We would then all be required to engage in a series of slightly bad-tempered messages until we ended up in Cornwall, or London, or wherever, and then there’d be nothing, nothing at all, in fact if you mentioned it again she’d sound harassed.

As with most people it would be about now, mid to late November, that my sister and I would begin to email each other again about the festivities. We would share lists, float ideas, place Amazon orders, email the folks and the cousins and get the whole thing going. With carols in the shops and the first light flurry of party bookings falling onto our diaries, the mighty cogs of Christmas would start to turn.

What about Mum? Stuck in the office, glued to the phone, totally ignoring the jolly hollies in an effort to shove the latest deadline out of the way.

Then the Amazon orders would start to arrive and my sister and I would confirm what we’d got, and add to or subtract from our lists, and while we were at it we’d put in some last-minute warnings about being overhung on this, or this, or this date.

Mum? Off to Bognor to meet a man about a statue, then tea with the girls the next day, a PMSA meeting or two, all the while doggedly dealing with the same tortuous deadline.

First person to mention the C word, last one to do anything about it, Mum always managed to somehow be utterly late to the party yet was still one of the best gift-buyers I’ve ever known. The choices were at times random, unusual, but almost always spot-on, an impressive fact when you knew that she did absolutely all her shopping at breakneck speed somewhere between the 20 and 23 of December. When all our gifts were serenely wrapped, stacked and ready to go, we’d get a bossy email fired into the inbox, lit up with a red ‘URGENT’ flag, full of bold text, shouty underlines and panicky jokes. There’d be far-out ideas for Dad that we’d already nixed several weeks before during a rushed cup of tea. There’d be a blindingly clever way of doing absolutely all of the cousins’ kids, late but perfect ideas for close friends and other rellies, and at the same time she and Dad would rattle off 142 Christmas cards, machine-gunned through every letter-box on the block at the speed of light, while attending roughly three drinks parties a day in that last crazy festive week.

Usually on around 23 December the hire car would heave onto the M40 and limp towards Cornwall, where the gifts would be dragged through the inky rain into the upstairs bedroom until the next night, when wrapping would finally commence in earnest with a glass of something strong at about 7pm on Christmas Eve. At least one present a year was left in London. A little something for later on, we’d all agree, kindly.

Back to now, and another Christmas in the tropics. Orchard Road lights are pink this year, with glorious unicorns and strange pyramids stacking slightly athletic Santas under puce stars swinging in the warm rain. It’s a confectioner’s dream, with absolutely no link to the baby Jesus or any little donkeys, pine trees or puddings, and Mum would have absolutely loved it all, especially the huge golden hanging globes. Every year part of her amazing speed-of-light shopping would include a new bauble for each family member: beautiful glass creations, hand-blown and webbed with delicate colours in just the right shade for each of us. How she picked them all out in time, got them so beautifully right, I’ll never know.

Nowadays, I do the same for her. This year’s choice is a little hanging horse for the lunar zodiac, made by hand-knitted Cambodians, purple with pretty silver detail.

unicorn

Photo of pink unicorn by TheThompsons

Merry baubles, Mum. Hope you like it.

Wǒ bù zhīdào

I’m not kidding when I say that – I mean, I really don’t know, half the time, as the Mandarin classes are getting more and more tricky, although it does help that in Chapter 8 we’ve started talking about cats and dogs, because to be honest that interests me a lot more than who is a student and whether or not I am going swimming tomorrow. Give me a xiăomāo any time.

I’m showing off, of course. Wish I was so cocksure in class.